January:Loft & Roof Space Check

What it could mean

Condensation forms when air containing water vapour meets a surface cold enough for that vapour to turn into water droplets. In winter, roof surfaces can become particularly cold, and droplets may sometimes freeze. Widespread droplets or frost during cold, dry weather are more consistent with condensation, although the pattern alone does not establish the cause. Moisture can reach the loft through gaps around the hatch or ceiling services, or from an extractor duct that has become disconnected. Obstructed ventilation routes can also contribute. These are possible contributors, rather than proof of the cause: rainwater leaks and condensation can occur together.

What to do next

Use your checks to note where the moisture appears, whether it is widespread or localised, and whether it follows cold weather or rainfall. Record any visibly obstructed ventilation routes or disconnected extractor ducting. An obvious duct defect may be something a suitable installer can put right directly. Avoid adding vents or moving insulation indiscriminately, because the right arrangement depends on the roof’s construction.

If moisture keeps returning, timbers remain wet or visible growth is present, seek advice on the underlying cause. A building surveyor or roofing specialist experienced with older homes can help assess what needs investigating and whether a site visit is necessary. Your photographs and observations will help them understand the problem. If you would find an initial discussion helpful, you can find roofing specialists and building surveyors through Expertible. Some concerns will still require an on-site inspection.

What it could mean

Wetting that appears or becomes worse during rainfall may indicate water entering through the roof covering or around a junction, such as a chimney, valley, dormer or rooflight. Water can travel along underlay, timbers or masonry before becoming visible, so the damp patch may be some distance from the defect. Old staining alone does not establish that a leak is still active, and rainwater entry and condensation can occur together.

What to do next

From a safe position, photograph the affected area and the roof above and beside it. Record whether water is actively dripping and whether the wetting changes after rain. These observations can help someone locate the problem without requiring you to trace it into inaccessible parts of the roof.

Where a slipped tile or another roof defect is apparent, a roofer experienced with that roof covering is usually the appropriate first contact. An advice call is not a prerequisite. If the source remains unclear, or wetting returns after repair, further investigation may be needed. Avoid plugging gaps or applying sealants from inside: this may conceal the symptom without repairing the point of entry.

Keep clear of wet electrical equipment or ceilings and boarding that appear weakened or sagging. After the source has been repaired, affected materials should be checked for drying and any remaining damage.

What it could mean

Mould or other fungal growth can indicate that an area has remained damp, or repeatedly become damp. Condensation, rainwater entry and plumbing leaks are possible sources.

Surface mould and timber decay are different. Mould grows on surfaces and can cause spotting, discolouration or a fuzzy coating. Its presence does not, by itself, mean that a timber has lost strength. However, it is a sign of moisture conditions that deserve attention.

Timber-decay fungi, including those responsible for wet rot and dry rot, break down the wood itself and can reduce its strength. Affected timber may look crumbly, unusually cracked or fibrous. These signs are not a reliable identification guide: old timbers can have harmless splits and surface marks, and decay is not always visible. Mould and decay can also occur together.

What to do next

Photograph the growth and enough of the surrounding area to show its position. Refer to your moisture checks: is there nearby wetting, does it change after rain, and are other roof surfaces affected? Avoid disturbing the growth or probing the timber to investigate it.

Where a moisture source has been identified, addressing it is the priority. Cleaning or applying a treatment alone will not resolve continuing dampness. If growth is extensive, returns, or accompanies visible timber deterioration, seek an assessment from someone experienced in moisture and timber problems in older buildings. Establish the cause and extent before agreeing to treatment or timber replacement.

What it could mean

White material on a roof surface is not necessarily mould. During freezing conditions, frost can form on cold surfaces and will disappear as those surfaces warm. On brick, stone or mortar, white powdery or crystalline deposits may be salts left behind when moisture evaporates—a process called efflorescence. These deposits show that moisture has moved through the material, but do not establish where it came from or whether the area is still damp.

Other white marks may be residues from earlier building work or fungal growth. Colour alone cannot distinguish them, so the surface they appear on, nearby signs of dampness and changes over time are more useful than appearance alone.

What to do next

Photograph the material and its surroundings, noting the weather and whether the surface appears wet. If it may be frost, compare the same area when conditions are warmer. Avoid scraping, brushing or applying a treatment simply to find out what it is.

An unchanged deposit on otherwise dry, sound masonry can be recorded and reviewed during later checks. If it is increasing, accompanied by recurring dampness or associated with crumbling surfaces, the moisture source and condition of the material deserve further investigation. If it appears to be growth on timber, refer to “Mould and fungal growth”.

What it could mean

Older roof timbers are often uneven, with bends, surface splits and evidence of earlier repairs. Some irregularities reflect how the timber was originally shaped or how it dried; others may result from movement that happened long ago. An uneven appearance does not automatically mean the roof is failing.

What matters is whether the timbers and their connections can still do their job. A significant break, a joint pulling apart, pronounced sagging or a timber that has been substantially cut or removed deserves closer attention. Earlier alterations may have been properly designed, but their adequacy cannot be established from appearance alone.

What to do next

Photograph the whole arrangement and then the detail, from a safe position. Note any nearby dampness or deterioration, and compare with earlier photographs or records of building work if you have them. You do not need to establish whether movement is active before asking for advice.

For significant damage or uncertain structural alterations, arrange an assessment by a building surveyor or structural engineer experienced with older buildings and timber roofs. This may require an on-site inspection. Avoid cutting, straightening or adding supports yourself. If anything appears unstable or is visibly moving, leave the area and seek urgent professional assistance rather than continuing the check.

Historic England’s guidance on structural movement (opens in a new tab) provides useful further reading on distinguishing longstanding distortion from problems requiring investigation.

What it could mean

Underlay is the felt or membrane beneath some roof coverings. It provides an additional layer of protection beneath the tiles or slates. Tears, deterioration or displaced sections may reduce that protection, but a visible tear does not by itself establish that rainwater is entering. Some older roofs were built without underlay; its absence is different from damage to an existing layer.

What to do next

Photograph the damaged area and enough of the surrounding roof to show its location. Note any nearby dripping, staining or wet timber, and whether these change after rain. Do not pull at loose material or move tiles or slates to investigate.

A roofer experienced with the roof’s construction can assess whether a local repair is appropriate or whether the condition needs wider investigation. Avoid patching it indiscriminately from inside: the repair needs to suit the material and preserve the intended drainage and ventilation arrangements. Missing underlay in a roof that never had it does not automatically mean the whole roof needs replacing.

What it could mean

Seeing daylight from inside a loft does not automatically mean the roof is leaking. Some older roofs have no underlay beneath their tiles or slates, so small points or narrow lines of light may be visible between overlapping materials. At the eaves, daylight may come through openings that form part of the roof’s ventilation arrangement.

A larger or irregular opening, visibly displaced material, or daylight accompanied by wetting or staining deserves closer attention. The pattern and surrounding condition matter more than the presence of light alone. Equally, not seeing daylight does not prove that a roof is watertight.

What to do next

From a safe position, photograph the opening and enough of the surrounding roof to show its location. Note any nearby staining or dampness and whether you have observed water entering during rain. Do not climb closer or move roof materials to investigate.

If a slipped, broken or missing tile or slate is apparent, a roofer experienced with that roof covering is usually the appropriate person to inspect it and carry out any necessary repair. An advice call is not a prerequisite. If the opening’s purpose is unclear, have it assessed before arranging work.

Avoid plugging gaps from inside with foam or other materials: this may obstruct ventilation without repairing the outer roof covering. Where birds or bats may be using an opening, seek appropriate wildlife advice before disturbing or closing it.

What it could mean

Dampness where the roof meets the wall can have several sources. Water may enter around the roof edge, travel down from a defect higher up, or reach timber through damp adjoining masonry. Condensation is another possibility. The position of the damp patch alone does not establish its cause.

Rafter feet and wall plates form part of the roof’s support, so persistent wetting or visible deterioration here deserves attention.

What to do next

From your checks, note whether the dampness follows rainfall and whether staining continues above it or across neighbouring masonry. Photograph the timber-to-wall junction as well as the affected area.

Where an obvious roof-edge defect needs repair, a suitable roofer is the direct next step. If the source remains unclear or the supporting timber or masonry appears deteriorated, arrange an assessment by someone experienced with older roofs.

What it could mean

Some roofs rely on openings at the eaves to allow air to move through the roof space and help carry moisture away. Insulation, stored possessions or debris blocking an existing route can reduce that airflow. Roof constructions vary, however: an older roof without obvious purpose-made vents is not automatically defective, and adding more ventilation is not always the right response.

What to do next

If a stored item is clearly obstructing an existing opening and can be moved safely, move it away. Where insulation or previous building work appears to block the route, photograph the arrangement before making changes. Avoid pulling insulation back indiscriminately, cutting openings or fitting additional vents without understanding how that roof is intended to work.

If the obstruction cannot be safely resolved, or the arrangement is unclear and dampness keeps returning, a roofer or building surveyor experienced with older roofs can help establish what is needed. Finding an obstruction is useful, but does not prove that it explains all the moisture present.

If nests, droppings or other signs of wildlife are present, refer to “Wildlife in the roof space” before disturbing the area or changing an opening.

What it could mean

Seeing daylight from inside a loft does not automatically mean the roof is leaking. Some older roofs have no underlay beneath their tiles or slates, so small points or narrow lines of light may be visible between overlapping materials. At the eaves, daylight may come through openings that form part of the roof’s ventilation arrangement.

A larger or irregular opening, visibly displaced material, or daylight accompanied by wetting or staining deserves closer attention. The pattern and surrounding condition matter more than the presence of light alone. Equally, not seeing daylight does not prove that a roof is watertight.

What to do next

From a safe position, photograph the opening and enough of the surrounding roof to show its location. Note any nearby staining or dampness and whether you have observed water entering during rain. Do not climb closer or move roof materials to investigate.

If a slipped, broken or missing tile or slate is apparent, a roofer experienced with that roof covering is usually the appropriate person to inspect it and carry out any necessary repair. An advice call is not a prerequisite. If the opening’s purpose is unclear, have it assessed before arranging work.

Avoid plugging gaps from inside with foam or other materials: this may obstruct ventilation without repairing the outer roof covering. Where birds or bats may be using an opening, seek appropriate wildlife advice before disturbing or closing it.

What it could mean

Roof spaces and eaves can provide shelter for birds and bats. Finding signs of them does not automatically mean the roof is defective or that they need removing. It does mean that any work around their access points needs care.

Droppings or nesting material may remain when animals are not visible. An apparently empty space in January is therefore not proof that an opening is unused. Bats and their roosts are legally protected, including roosts temporarily unoccupied. Wild birds’ nests are protected while being built or used.

What to do next

Note where you saw signs of wildlife, without moving nesting material, handling droppings or reaching into gaps. Do not block an entrance, remove a nest or disturb an animal to investigate further.

If bats may be present, contact the Bat Conservation Trust for advice before repairs, insulation work or changes to openings that could affect them. For birds, consult the RSPB’s guidance on nesting in roofs and eaves. Do not assume that work is suitable simply because it is winter.

Wildlife does not necessarily prevent necessary repairs. Getting advice early helps establish how and when the work can proceed while protecting the animals and your home.

What it could mean

A damp patch on a chimney, gable or separating wall does not necessarily mean water entered at that point. Moisture may enter through the roof or external wall and travel through masonry before becoming visible. Staining may also remain after an earlier problem has been repaired, so a mark alone does not establish that a leak is active.

Chimneys need particular consideration. Dampness can relate to the exposed chimney above the roof, its junction with the roof covering or conditions within the flue. Soot-related deposits and salts can also complicate the picture. Persistent dark staining should therefore not automatically be treated as an ordinary roof leak.

What to do next

Use your photographs to record whether the patch changes after rain and whether nearby roof timbers or surfaces are also wet. Note whether the chimney serves an appliance or is believed to be disused; this is useful information when seeking advice.

Where a roof or chimney-junction defect is apparent, a roofer experienced with older buildings may be the appropriate first contact. If the source is unclear, recurring or appears related to the flue, further assessment may be needed from a building surveyor or an appropriately qualified chimney or appliance specialist. Avoid painting over or sealing the affected masonry before the source is understood.

What it could mean

White material on a roof surface is not necessarily mould. During freezing conditions, frost can form on cold surfaces and will disappear as those surfaces warm. On brick, stone or mortar, white powdery or crystalline deposits may be salts left behind when moisture evaporates—a process called efflorescence. These deposits show that moisture has moved through the material, but do not establish where it came from or whether the area is still damp.

Other white marks may be residues from earlier building work or fungal growth. Colour alone cannot distinguish them, so the surface they appear on, nearby signs of dampness and changes over time are more useful than appearance alone.

What to do next

Photograph the material and its surroundings, noting the weather and whether the surface appears wet. If it may be frost, compare the same area when conditions are warmer. Avoid scraping, brushing or applying a treatment simply to find out what it is.

An unchanged deposit on otherwise dry, sound masonry can be recorded and reviewed during later checks. If it is increasing, accompanied by recurring dampness or associated with crumbling surfaces, the moisture source and condition of the material deserve further investigation. If it appears to be growth on timber, refer to “Mould and fungal growth”.

What it could mean

Exposed brick, stone and mortar in an older loft can look rough or uneven without needing repair. Small areas of weathered mortar may be longstanding. More substantial mortar loss, loose or displaced masonry, or deterioration around the points where roof timbers rest on a wall deserves closer attention.

These supporting points are known as timber bearings. Their condition matters because they transfer the weight carried by the timber into the wall. Dampness here may affect both the masonry and the timber, so simply filling visible gaps may not address the underlying problem.

What to do next

Photograph the affected area and enough of the surrounding wall to show its position, particularly where a timber meets the masonry. Note nearby dampness or staining. Do not pull out loose mortar, push masonry or disturb a timber bearing to test it.

For localised mortar deterioration away from structural supports, a builder or mason experienced with traditional materials can advise whether repair is needed and which mortar is suitable. Loose masonry, substantial deterioration or damage around timber bearings warrants assessment by a building surveyor or structural engineer experienced with older buildings before repairs are agreed.

What it could mean

Older walls are not always straight, and some cracks or distortion may reflect movement that happened long ago and has since settled. A crack alone does not establish its cause or show whether movement is continuing. Its position, changes over time and the condition of the surrounding masonry all matter.

Noticeable bulging or leaning, displaced sections of masonry, or cracking around the points supporting roof timbers deserves closer assessment. The same applies to chimney masonry, where movement may also affect the flue. Crack width alone is not a reliable guide to significance.

What to do next

From a safe position, photograph the whole affected area and then the detail. Include a ruler for scale only if it is safely within reach, and date your photographs. Compare with earlier photographs or records if available; you do not need to prove that a crack is growing before seeking advice.

For substantial cracking, bulging, displacement or changes around structural supports, arrange an on-site assessment by a building surveyor or structural engineer experienced with older buildings. They can advise whether repair, further investigation or monitoring is appropriate. Avoid filling cracks before they have been recorded or trying to straighten or support masonry yourself. If masonry appears unstable or is visibly moving, leave the area and seek urgent professional assistance.

What it could mean

Walls between adjoining properties help limit the spread of fire and smoke. Substantial holes through them, or gaps between the top of the wall and the roof, may weaken that separation. Openings can remain from earlier building work or the installation of pipes, cables and beams; their age does not establish whether they are suitable.

Not every visible gap has the same significance. The wall’s construction, what lies beyond it and how it meets the roof all matter. Being able to see into a neighbouring roof space is a finding to have assessed, rather than an opening to fill yourself.

What to do next

Photograph the opening from your own safely accessible roof space, showing its position and any services passing through it. Do not climb through, disturb its edges or remove existing filling materials.

Arrange an assessment by a building surveyor experienced with older buildings, with fire-safety expertise where needed. Any repair should provide suitable separation while accommodating the surrounding roof construction and services. Ordinary expanding foam or loosely packed insulation should not be assumed to provide an appropriate repair.

What it could mean

Daylight through an external loft wall may come from an intentional ventilation opening, a gap left by earlier alterations, or deteriorated masonry. Unlike an opening between neighbouring roof spaces, its significance relates to the external wall and what the opening allows through it.

An opening is not automatically a defect, but loose edges, displaced materials, nearby dampness or evidence of rain entering deserve attention. Its purpose should be understood before it is closed, particularly where it may provide ventilation or access for wildlife.

What to do next

From a safe position, photograph the opening and the surrounding wall. Note whether it has a grille or other deliberately formed detail, whether services pass through it, and whether there is nearby staining or deterioration. Do not reach through or disturb loose material.

If it appears to be a damaged area or an unfinished alteration, a builder or mason experienced with older buildings can assess the repair needed. If its purpose is unclear, seek advice before filling it.

What it could mean

Wet insulation, pooling water or staining on loft boards and ceiling surfaces shows where moisture has collected, but not necessarily where it originated. Water may have entered through the roof, leaked from a pipe or tank, or dripped from surfaces affected by condensation. It can travel along timbers and other materials before reaching the loft floor.

Old staining may remain after a problem has been resolved. Insulation that is currently wet needs attention, however: it may perform less effectively, and prolonged wetting can affect nearby timbers and the ceiling below.

What to do next

Photograph the affected area together with what sits above and beside it. Refer to your other checks for nearby wetting, pipe or tank leaks, and any relationship to rainfall or cold weather. Avoid lifting large areas of insulation or stepping off safe boarding to trace the water.

Where a source is apparent, arrange the appropriate repair; for example, a plumber for a leaking pipe or a roofer for a roof defect. The affected area should then be checked for drying and any damage; replacing insulation alone will not resolve continuing water entry. If the source remains unclear or wetting returns, seek further assessment.

Keep clear of wet electrical equipment and any ceiling or boarding that appears weakened or sagging, and seek prompt professional help.

What it could mean

Insulation works best when it forms a reasonably continuous layer in the parts of the building it is intended to protect. Where loft insulation has been pushed aside or heavily compressed by stored items or boarding, its performance can be reduced. Gaps can also leave parts of the ceiling below colder than neighbouring areas.

Not every apparent gap is a mistake. Clearances may be needed around ventilation routes or particular fittings, and converted roof spaces can have insulation in different places. This check identifies disturbed or inconsistent areas; it does not establish that more insulation should be added everywhere. An uneven insulating layer does not by itself establish the cause of moisture elsewhere in the roof.

What to do next

Photograph the affected area, showing nearby boarding, stored items, fittings and the surrounding insulation. If a stored item is compressing insulation and can be safely relocated to a suitable storage area, move it. Do not assume that removing the weight will fully restore the insulation’s condition.

Before filling gaps, lifting boards or adding insulation, establish why the arrangement differs. Avoid covering electrical fittings, flues or ventilation openings. Where insulation has been disturbed by previous work, ask the installer to review it. For more extensive changes, seek advice from someone who understands insulation and moisture in older buildings.

Gaps around hatches and services

What it could mean

Gaps around a loft hatch or where pipes, cables and ducts pass through the ceiling can allow warm indoor air carrying moisture into a colder roof space. This may contribute to condensation, even if the gap itself looks dry. These openings are different from ventilation routes at the eaves: they connect the rooms below to the loft. The significance of an individual gap depends on the wider roof construction and the number and size of other air paths.

What to do next

Check that the hatch closes properly and note any damaged or missing seal. Replacing a deteriorated seal with a suitable equivalent may be a straightforward maintenance task, provided the hatch can be reached safely and still closes correctly.

Photograph gaps around services without moving fittings or disturbing wiring. Some fittings require clearances or specific fire-resistant details. Ask an appropriately qualified installer about openings around electrical fittings, flues or unfamiliar services rather than filling them with general-purpose foam or insulation.

Dampness around the hatch

What it could mean

The hatch or surrounding ceiling may be colder than neighbouring surfaces, particularly where insulation is missing or uneven. Moist indoor air can condense there, while gaps around the hatch may also let that air enter the loft. However, nearby staining or droplets could come from water above; their position alone does not establish the cause.

What to do next

Note whether the dampness is on the room-facing side, around the frame or on surfaces above the hatch. From a safe position, look for nearby wet insulation, staining or dripping, and record whether the dampness appears during cold weather or after rain.

An obvious problem with the hatch’s fit or seal may be straightforward to address. If insulation appears disturbed, establish the intended arrangement before changing it. Where water is arriving from above, attention should focus on its source. If dampness persists or the cause remains unclear, seek further assessment rather than assuming the hatch needs replacing.

What it could mean

Water on the outside of a pipe or tank does not automatically mean it is leaking. Cold surfaces can collect condensation from the surrounding air. Moisture concentrated at a joint, valve or connection may suggest a plumbing leak, but water can also travel along a pipe before dripping elsewhere.

Staining may remain from an earlier problem, so it is useful to distinguish an old mark from current wetting. Water discharging through an overflow or warning pipe also deserves attention: the pipe may be carrying water away as intended, while indicating a problem with the system it serves.

What to do next

From a safe position, note where the moisture appears: at a particular fitting, across a wider surface, or below the pipe or tank. Photograph the affected part and its surroundings. Record whether it is actively dripping and whether nearby insulation or surfaces are wet, without removing lagging or opening the tank.

An apparent plumbing leak or continuing overflow is usually a matter for a plumber to investigate and repair directly. If the moisture appears to be condensation, refer to the condensation entry and note any missing or displaced pipe or tank insulation. If the source is uncertain, a plumber can help establish whether the water service itself is leaking.

Keep clear of water near electrical equipment and seek prompt professional help. Do not tighten unfamiliar fittings or adjust tank controls simply to test whether that stops the water.

What it could mean

Insulation around water pipes and tanks slows heat loss and helps protect them during cold weather. Gaps where lagging has split or slipped can leave sections more exposed to freezing. Insulation can also help limit condensation on cold-water surfaces, but it cannot repair a leak or guarantee that water will never freeze.

Tank arrangements vary. What looks like an uninsulated area may be intentional, so the aim is to identify damage or changes to the existing protection rather than wrap every surface indiscriminately.

What to do next

Photograph missing or displaced insulation, including the surrounding arrangement. If an existing pipe-insulation sleeve has simply slipped apart and is safely within reach, refitting it may be straightforward, provided it is dry and sound and you do not strain the pipe or disturb fittings.

Wet or deteriorated insulation needs its moisture source understood before replacement. For missing sections, unfamiliar tank arrangements or more extensive work, a plumber can advise on suitable protection. Do not cover vents, warning pipes or controls, or add insulation beneath a tank without understanding the intended arrangement.

What it could mean

Extractor ducts carry moist air from rooms such as bathrooms and kitchens to an outside outlet. A disconnected joint, tear or duct ending openly in the loft can release that air into the roof space instead. Crushed or sharply kinked ducting can restrict extraction, while moisture may also condense inside a duct passing through a cold loft.

A duct disappearing behind boarding or insulation is not necessarily disconnected. Record what you can see without dismantling anything to trace its full route.

What to do next

Photograph the affected section and enough of the visible route to show where it comes from and where it appears to go. Note any nearby dampness or staining. If a stored item is pressing on the duct and can be moved safely, remove that pressure without pulling or bending the duct.

A visibly disconnected, torn or crushed extractor duct is usually a matter for a suitable ventilation installer to repair directly. They can also check that it discharges outside and whether its insulation and arrangement are appropriate. Simply joining a loose end to the nearest opening may not provide a suitable outlet.

Do not confuse extractor ducting with a combustion flue. If you are unsure what a duct serves, leave it undisturbed and have it identified before any work.

What it could mean

A full water tank places considerable weight on its supporting platform and the structure beneath it. Noticeable sagging, displaced supports, substantial corrosion or deterioration may affect how that weight is carried. Distortion or cracking of the tank itself also deserves attention, particularly where there is evidence of leakage.

The shape and support arrangements of tanks vary, so appearance alone cannot establish whether an installation is adequate. A markedly distorted tank or deteriorated platform should be assessed rather than simply left for comparison at the next annual check.

What to do next

From a safe position, photograph the tank and its visible supports, noting any wetting, staining or change from earlier photographs. Do not climb onto the platform, push the tank, adjust its supports or attempt to prop it yourself.

A plumber can assess the tank and its installation. Where the supporting platform or roof-space structure appears affected, a building surveyor or structural engineer may also be needed. If there is active leakage or the tank or supports appear unstable, keep clear and arrange urgent professional assistance.

What it could mean

A combustion flue carries gases from a boiler, stove or other fuel-burning appliance safely outside. Damage, displaced sections or separated joints may allow those gases, including carbon monoxide, to escape into the building. Unlike an extractor duct, a suspect combustion flue should not be reconnected or patched as a routine maintenance task.

What to do next

Stop the inspection and leave the flue undisturbed. Do not run the appliance to test it. If you know which appliance it serves, stop using it and arrange a prompt on-site safety check by an engineer qualified for that fuel and appliance. For gas appliances, use a suitably qualified Gas Safe registered engineer; for solid-fuel appliances, a HETAS-registered installer is an appropriate route.

If you cannot identify what the flue serves, seek professional help promptly rather than assuming it is disused. Photographs taken from your existing safe position may help explain the concern, but cannot establish that the installation is safe.

If a carbon monoxide alarm sounds or you suspect fumes are entering the home, get everyone into fresh air and seek emergency assistance. Do not wait for a routine appointment.

What it could mean

Water reaching electrical fittings, connections or equipment can create a risk of electric shock or fire. The immediate priority is electrical safety, regardless of whether the water comes from a roof leak, plumbing or condensation. Equipment should not be assumed safe because it still works or has dried out.

What to do next

Stop the inspection and keep clear of wet wiring, fittings, equipment and nearby water. Do not touch, unplug or attempt to dry affected items.

If you can reach a dry, undamaged consumer unit safely, switch off the electricity supply. Do not touch it if it is wet, damaged or showing signs of overheating. If you cannot isolate the supply safely, keep away and seek urgent help from a registered electrician. If there is smoke or fire, leave the building and call 999.

Have affected electrics checked before they are used again. The water source also needs attention, but do not approach a leak through an electrically unsafe area. Once the area is safe, the relevant moisture checks can help establish what repair is needed.